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In other words, it should go from the strike side top to the hinge side bottom. Thanks for watching.

That's a good trick for people who don't really know how to make them. A good quality gate can last without them. Thanks for watching.

Not when you know what you're doing, and they can look quite elegant and attractive when you put a little effort into it. It's obvious you have no experience so don't feel bad. Instead be inspired. Thanks for watching.

For YOU perhaps, but a careful craftsman can make them look great. Don't be limited, be inspired. Thanks for watching.

I've built many decks and gates, but I no longer do that. I work on doors only. I went through this gate while working on some doors at a house, and decided to share some tips. Thanks for watching.

It's been a lonnnnnng time since I made this and I refined the system quite a bit. Use coated screws instead of nails. The nails pull out over time. Instead of attaching the frame to the wall with Red Heads, use ext grade lag screws and lag shields. Much easier and stronger. Good luck and thanks for watching.

@@askillthatpays thank you boss🙏

I wasn't there to fix it. Just walked through it on way to a job and thought I'd point out some flaws. Thanks for watching.

He told you how. You need shown too?

Fixin' cost extra

What more do you need? He articulated perfectly what to do.

It seems to be a crowd favorite and when I was trying to figure these out, I couldn't find any instruction anywhere, so I'm happy to share my experience. Thanks for watching.

IT's never exact, but it's usually close enough and it's served me well. Always cut the door a little longer than you think to make sure you don't cut it too short. Thanks for watching.

I appreciate that. It's been a long time in the making and I'm always making small modifications. Thanks for watching.

Great to hear and if you're going to do this, it's best to just get new wheels. Very easy and inexpensive. This was an emergency temp fix for a party that was about to begin. Thanks for watching.

I will notify the homeowners that you have offered to pay the cost of replacing them. Materials and installation $3000 - $8000. Would you like their contact information? Thanks for watching.

Good question but with this model they were reversible. Very rare for handing on interior locksets but not unheard of. More common with curved levers as opposed to straight levers. This homeowner ordered all products prior to installation and he was extremely detail oriented. Thanks for watching.

I would put the jamb in place and put a couple screws top and bottom to hold it steady. Whichever side the hinges are on, hold that side of the jamb flush to your existing wall. Then hold a pencil along the wall on the crooked side and mark the jamb top to bottom. Then remove the jamb and cut the line with a circular saw or free-hand on a table saw. It won't be perfect, but it will be close enough to install the casing and caulk. OR install the jamb then float layers of plaster on the wall to bring it flush. Choose whichever you think will look better and is more do-able for you. Good luck and thanks for watching.

As someone who investigates break-ins, it's EXTREMELY rare that someone jumps a fence because they have no idea what's on the other side or if they'll be able to get back. I wouldn't recommend trying to epoxy the lock. I've never seen that work. Is it possible to modify the inside of the gate where the lock is installed, so that it's only 2" thick in that location but still the same on the outside? Like a recessed box. I've done that before with success. Good luck and thanks for watching.

No need for NRP's as it's just a roof top. We did get stainless AND coated them with lithium grease. 5 years and still going strong. thanks for watching.

Thanks for your kind words. I began as a general contractor 20 years ago. Once word got out that I could do doors, my door business exploded so I made the full specialization 15 years ago.Got rid of trucks, jackhammers, electrical gear, plumbing gear, and unreliable helpers. Customers LOVE that I'm a specialist and I'm grateful because my phone never stops ringing. Thanks for watching.

Glad you think so and thanks for watching.

You're welcome and thank YOU for watching. I appreciate it

That's great to hear. Thanks for watching.

I try. Keep in mind that I run into a lot of the same things, so there's no point in making a video. Years ago I had a business in CA which included a wider variety of doors. Since moving to TN years ago, I've noticed there isn't quite the variety. But I try to shoot anything I haven't seen before. Thanks for watching.

@@askillthatpays well said bro. appreciate the response my guy! :)

That's not a bad idea and I do that with shorter jambs. My point is that with the 8ft jambs it's so flexible and very time consuming to plumb one side first, so as long as it's not egregious, I can just anchor it and then work backwards to get everything right, but that's a very experienced trick. Getting one side plumb from the start is a smart approach. Thanks for watching.

@@askillthatpays try it once. You need the right length Stabila level. You'll find it speeds up time needed per door and quality is better. I raise the butt side of the jamb 1/8" and then just nail it through the shims. I mark my level at every butt location. Blast bottom shim, level top shim and add the rest where the butts are. You get super fast. I raise it an 1/8 only because sometimes the floor isn't level and the head won't come down enough on the latch side. When you paid per door you can blaze through a building and seldom if ever a call back. Thank brother man!

Thanks for watching. I appreciate it

It can be done if you get creative with angles. pull out the side wood piece, then cut an angle, then glue it back in. Easier method would be to alter the jamb so it's 32 top and bottom or get a solid door. Thanks for watching.

There are different codes for different cities. It's hard to do ANY kind of waterproofing when doing a retrofit, so MY rule in that case is do the best you can. If it's new construction or adequate access, a spray is no acceptable, but if it provides some protection, it's better than nothing. Thanks for watching.

I've never found anything regarding these and the manufacturers don't provide any info because they're all so different, so I posted this to share what I've learned and I hope it helps. Thanks again for watching.

It's possible, yet far more difficult than you might imagine and they always look terrible. No matter how well done, there will always be a line and it's very difficult to patch and paint. Cutting a wedge that goes from 3/4" thick to zero is very challenging and messy. Leaves the client with patch and paint work. This way repairs the door and looks new and also solves the threshold issue. Thanks for watching.

Glad I could help. Thanks for watching.

These are the most challenging of all locks I've death with, but I've never experienced that particular issue. Any kind of thumb turn issue for me was solved by either making the hole a little bigger to eliminate any obstructions. Realigning the lock because if it's slightly crooked it won't work, or making sure that piece that holds the thumb turn is firmly aligned with the notch AND you only have it on one side of the lock, not both. Good luck and thanks for watching.

Yes, generally speaking, whatever size door you want should be installed into a Rough Opening that is 2" wider and 2" taller than the actual door. Therefore, if you want a 30" x 82" door, your Rough Opening (framing) should be 32" wide and 82" tall. That allows enough space to install a door jamb and door. Thanks for watching.

I appreciate that, and glad you found it useful. Thanks for watching.

That's very kind of you to say, and I appreciate that. I know how challenging it can be to figure out these mysteries. So after doing this so many times, I'm happy to share my methods with others. So glad you found it helpful. Thanks for watching.

I'd never thought of that. I don't think it's necessary in this case, and if you have to remove or adjust or if it slips, it's a big mess. I've done about 10 of these and never used such a thing so I'm sure you'll be good. Thanks for watching.

That's great to hear and the security screws are overkill anyway. In 15 years of working on doors, I've NEVER seen a case where someone tried to unscrew something. It's too noisy, difficult and time consuming. Thanks for watching.

I appreciate that. Thanks for watching.

I'm glad you found it helpful. It's rare to find anyone willing to do these as they can be tricky, so I'm happy to pass on some knowledge. Thanks for watching.

Yes and if you understood doors and old frames, you'd know why. With very old jambs, especially ones that have the old metal style weatherstripping, there are very uneven surfaces. When viewed from the outside, as in the last frame, it's clear to see that the door closes and seals properly. However because of the uneven, bumpy surfaces, the light can easily travel around corners and appear at various angles. The owner was aware of this, and plans to get a new prehung door by winter and will be hiring to me to install it. For THIS visit, he simply needed to get the door working properly and securely. Don't feel bad, I don't expect non door professionals to understand everything, and thanks for watching.

I'm no expert at drywall, but that's a good thing to do. Thanks for watching.

Yes, that would be ideal, but keep in mind, I'm not a window tech and don't stock that stuff, and I showed up to install a door, used what was available, and did this guy a solid. Thanks for watching.

no. house gets wrapped first typically. Many window guys/companies have variations on how to do this, but this is a good general procedure to follow. Thanks for watching.

That's great to hear. So glad I could assist. Thanks for watching.

Happy to help. Thanks for watching.

I work for a distributor who sells 8 different manufacturers ranging from vinyl/composite to steel and I must say, I've never seen the butterfly flashing method included in any installation instructions, but now that I see it I'm like "oh yeah, that makes sense".

With a certain type of flashing tape, you can stretch it around the corners and the butterfly is not necessary. I'm NOT a window guy so the butterfly is kind of an amateur move by guys like me who aren't experienced at this. I was just helping out my door client. Thanks for watching.

In my door work, I've watched a lot of guys wrap windows, so I understand the concept. Good to hear that I did it correctly. Thanks for watching.

@@gabrieljohnson5077 unfortunately they don't have the instructions included with the windows, why I will never know. But rep showed me the UA-cam video he was actually in from pellas own UA-cam channel and they explained it while he did the work. Granted this is from the 2000's so it's a little dated now but still.

Every contractor has their way of doing things, so when I'm trying to help someone out with this, I just stick to the basics. Thanks for watching.

@@NashvilleDoorCompanyPeter Very true still liked your way. much simpler and faster lol still great job

There are many ways to do this, and keep in mind, I wasn't planning on doing this. I was there to install a door. I used what was available and did him a favor. Thanks for watching.

That sounds fun. Just take it apart carefully and take pics at each stage if you're confused. It's not that hard. Thanks for watching.

You could be right. I think he gave it a good effort, but just didn't know the best practices. I'm certainly not a window guy, but I've water-proofed enough doors to understand the general idea. Thanks for watching.

It's hard to say without seeing it, but in the past when that has happened to me it was because I had the body facing the wrong way. Thanks for watching.

@@askillthatpays thanks for the reply, wish I could send a video here. The door had fully opened and closed well for several years, then now it stops a half. When I unhinged the door closer the door with close fully, but not when attached to the rotating ball. Must be something internal to the closer.